How to be a Mustang Photographer (updated)

Photo credit Michael Cody Mack

1. A job– This may sound like a counterintuitive statement but unless you are wildly successful, you won’t make a living solely upon your mustang photos. Most of the successful photogs in the mustang industry also do non-mustang horse photography. Horse shows, gymkhanas, private photo shoots, animals other than horses (pet portraiture) etc.

I have a wonderful job I adore outside of photography that allows me to pay for camera equipment, software, advertising, traveling to the horse management areas, printing… Plus my job also gives health benefits so when I cut my leg open on rusty barbed wire in pursuit of mustang photos (which actually happened in Arizona in 2020), I can go to the Emergency Room for a tetanus shot.  

2. Mustangs– another no-brainer. Use this book to find the mustang sites and I can offer suggestions for good hotels nearby. There are a lot of Horse/Herd Management Areas (HMA) in many states- some closer than you think. Also Google BLM, mustang, wild horse, management areas and you’ll find a lot of information, once you know the name of the HMA, try to Google that and you will be amazed at the sheer quantity of clubs and rescue groups affiliated with the mustangs!

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/the-american-mustang-guidebook-lisa-dines/1004453038?ean=9781572234031

3. Car with high clearance– four wheel drive is not necessary if you are absolutely 100% positive it won’t rain (being a weather psychic is useful too). High clearance is the most useful feature for your mustang-finding-vehicle but four wheel drive comes in handy and will offer you peace of mind. My husband loves to drive all over the place looking for mustangs… Four wheel drive is also good and I won’t go out to some of the sites without it…

4. SLR Digital Camera-like a Photoshop below, you need a DSLR camera (digital single lens reflex)- Canon, Nikon, Olympus- whatever is most affordable, start with used if finances are an issue. Lots of megapixels are great but beyond 10- the photos are just taking up space on your hard drive-unless you specialize in posters which require large files for the clearest printing but for most people, 10-12 megapixels or less is fine. Should you include video? Some of the newer SLR cameras come with video. I am a bit of a purist and I bought a GoPro camera so I can shoot video and photographs separately. When I am in the groove taking photos, the last thing I want to do is stop and switch my camera to video and waste tremendous space on my memory card for video… Save it for photos and find a friend with a sense of humor to shoot video for you. Try B&H Camera and Video in New York City- I have been there many times, they have excellent on-line used cameras and lenses and you can search by price. They are very knowledgeable and if you decide to visit, let me know-I will treat you to lunch.

5. Adobe Photoshop– Don’t accept substitutions. This is the industry standard in photography and if you want to be taken seriously, you need Photoshop. If money is tight, then you might consider buying it with a student license. There are restrictions with a limited student license but it is substantially cheaper. It is a rather complex program and it will take a while to learn Photoshop but there are plenty of books you can buy to learn this program as well as thousands of free lessons on line. Even video tutorials at Adobe’s website or You Tube. They have a new way to buy Adobe products called Adobe Creative Cloud where you pay a nominal fee each month  and you have access to ALL Adobe products and they have a vast library of programs for web design, video, photography and graphic design.

6. A spirit of adventure and professionalism– being adventurous is critical to mustang photography. When it is the fourth herd, located well over a mile away and it is 90F and you are already hot and sweaty…having that “okay, let’s hike through the sagebrush for the fourth time in the hot sun and photograph the mustangs” attitude is key… It is ALWAYS worth it. As for professionalism- be polite, respectful, avoid profanity both on your website, Facebook fan page and your personal page. People can see some of your personal page (regardless of friend status) and having questionable photos/content won’t bring people to your photography site in droves.   Utilizing your computer’s spellcheck and grammar are also pluses though I have been known to post some humorous comments when typing on my phone- granted the comments are spelled correctly, the just don’t make any sense grammatically.

Other non-essential but useful 

A friend– driver, video , companionship

External hard drive-always, always, always back up to an external source before you even look at the photos!

Cintiq board/tablet– I bought mine at B&H and this handy graphics tablets comes pre-calibrated for print. I never have to worry about my prints looking different than what I see on my monitor because of my Cintiq. If you don’t have a a graphics tablet, try calibrating your monitor so that the print will look similar to what you see in Photoshop. Also when doing fine work on a photograph, the pen is more comfortable to use than a mouse.

Telephoto lens– most cameras come with a 35-110 or 200 mm lens as a package deal. I love my 18-200mm. For mustangs, you will probably want to invest in a 100-400mm and IS is best. (Image Stabilized). I had a 500mm Canon lens- it was a moose, weighed a ton and was utterly useless in the field. Great for photographing hummingbirds at my feeder at home but that was about it. You want the most portable lenses you can carry- literally.

Digital watermark– this is a process that places an invisible ‘digital watermark’ on all your image (you choose which). It tracks these images throughout the Internet and will find if your image is being used somewhere else even if it has been altered. I use DigiMark.

Nik filters for Photoshop – amazing filters I can’t live without!

Alien Skin Filters– also phenomenal 

Adobe Lightroom– an amazingly useful program to preview, catalog and do minor editing- also will upload to a website as a gallery- very cool!

Monopod– like a tripod, this handy item comes as a single cane-like support for your camera. It has only one leg but if you find your images are blurry, try using a monopod or tripod. I find them cumbersome and I have learned how to steady my camera but I carry a monopod in my uber-cool photography vest. Once in a while they are great for panning a running herd or if you find yourself parked next to a waterhole… 

Photography vest- a slightly dorky but rather useful article of clothing. It has about 15 pockets of varying sizes. Make sure, if you don’t have a driver friend, put your car keys in a very safe place- zippered pockets are nice and secure. You don’t want to search through sagebrush for your cars keys. The nice thing about the vest is it holds extra lenses, water, monopod, memory cards and lens cloths without a backpack. Useful for hot summer days especially when you have to hoof-it for a mile…. 

Memory cards– I use smaller cards, about 32 MB and switch frequently. If I manage to get an amazing series of photos, I will remove that card, stash it someplace safe and continue with a fresh card. This way you don’t ever run the risk of losing precious photos. My cards are labeled 1,2,3,4,5… And A,B,C,D,E… This way I remember which are used and which are blank. I keep the cards as backup, even after I upload to an external hard drive. The photos are uploaded to my laptop, and then transferred to my external hard drive which I carry on the plane with me. Only then do I allow myself the pleasure of looking through that day’s adventures in mustang photography on my MacBook.

Cell phone with car charger– this is an obvious one

GPS– might be useful, I have never needed one myself – most phones come with some sort of location function. Try that before you buy a Garmin

Water– especially in the warmer weather

Have fun and be safe!!!!

-Meredith & Karen

The Dun Dilution Factor

Dun foal “Luna” (second) belonging to Connie Rivas of HP Quarter Horses

The Dun Dilution Factor works on all horse colours. It can appear in black, bay, chestnut, palomino, buckskin, cremello, roan, and even appears in grey horses prior to the horse greying out. Like the Cream Gene, the Dun Dilution lightens the base coat colour, adds primitive markings, but leaves black colour alone. There are so many different shades of dun and the nomenclature varies between horse breeds and regionally. We will describe them related to their base color. Black horses are unique because the resulting dun horses have a specific name called grullo/grulla. Dark bays and blacks can be almost impossible to distinguish.

A black horse with a Dun Dilution turns the horse a lighter shade, with primitive markings, and guard hairs (lighter hairs on the outside of the mane and tail). The head is usually darker. The resulting horses have a slate-blue with less red present although some can have a warm tone. They generally have a very dark head. Without genetic testing, we are only guessing at the actual chromosomes of these horses. .

Primitive markings are named for markings found on ancient horse breeds such as the Przewalski or Tappan horse. They include a continuous line from the withers to the dock (top of the tail). Other markings include wither and/or neck stripes, cobwebbing: faint stripes on the face, zebra stripes on the legs, chest stripes, and darker ear tips. Zebra stripes are the colour of the underlying coat color, so a chestnut horse has darker chestnut stripes and a bay has black zebra stripes. Lighter hair on either side of the mane and each side of the tail, called ‘guard hairs’ may also be present.

The management are with the most Duns relative to the population is Pryor, they are plentiful there. Sand Wash Basin has many as well, and they are present at the Salt River. Little Book Cliffs has them, but McCullough Peaks does not have many. Great Desert Basin also does not have a large population. The Dun trait is autosomal dominant:

From UC Davis (they do genetic testing in equines)

Alleles: D = Dun dilute, nd1 = Non-dun 1, nd2 = Non-dun 2

Horses with nd2/nd2 genotype will not be dun dilute and will not have primitive markings. They cannot transmit a dun dilution variant to their offspring.

Horses with nd1/nd2 genotype will not be dun dilute, but may have primitive markings. They may transmit the non-dun 1 variant to 50% of their offspring.

Horses with nd1/nd1 genotype will not be dun dilute, but may have primitive markings. They will transmit the non-dun 1 variant to all of their offspring.

Horses with D/nd1 or D/nd2 genotype will be dun dilute and will display primitive markings. They may transmit the dun dilute variant to 50% of their offspring. Matings with N/N genotype will results in a 50% chance of producing a dun dilute foal.

Horses with D/D genoytpe will be dun dilute and will transmit the dun dilute variant to all of their offspring. Matings with any genotype are predicted to produce dun dilute offspring.


(Click on all the photos to enlarge them)

A typical Bay dun

Black horse becomes a “grullo (male) or grulla (female)

Bay horses become a yellow-tan shade with their points (legs, mane, and tail remain black)

Left photo: Bay horse. The photo on the right shows a dun in front and a bay to the right. Note the reduction of red, resulting in a more warm golden colour

A solid chestnut horse becomes a lighter, golden horse with deep red points

A chestnut horse with a flaxen mane and tail becomes a lighter Dun -note the reduction of red

A liver chestnut horse becomes a deeper, darker Liver Chestnut Dun

Some dorsal stripes have marks perpendicular to the stripe, like hatch marks. Also, note the prominent wither marks and some neck marks.


A nice example of a line-back dorsal stripe in a Grullo Mustang


Well-marked wither and neck marks in a bay dun.

Duns can be very pale, such as this “buttermilk” dun on the right. Base colour buckskin, or light bay. A grullo is the second from the left.

A nice red dun on the left, and pale dun to the right

Duns can occur in buckskin horses- they are usually tan and hard to distinguish from more yellow duns. Genetic testing may reveal their genes. In this photo, we have three shades of Dun. The horse in the top right may be a Dunskin

A family of Duns. The foal is a Chestnut dun (chestnut base), the Stallion is a Chestnut dun, and the mare is a Bay dun

Bay dun mare with a red dun foal

The same pair as above- note the dark ear tip on the foal characteristic of duns. Other colors may have dark ear tips, so this alone is not a way to determine a dun

Two duns (Black dun, then a Bay Dun), a bay, and a roan bay peeking a head over the last horse…

This foal looks like a dun, but never trust a foal coat… they change constantly.

This is a dun that is greying out. Eventually, the dorsal stripe and zebra stripes will fade as the horse whitens with age

Feeling confident about your ability to spot Duns? There is one Dun in this photo

And one Dun in this photo… This might be a Dunskin

A pale Chestnut, a darker Chestnut, a bay and a roan- a comparison of red colours.

A Dunalino (Palomino + Dun, note the dorsal stripe, zebra stripes on the legs, and shoulder markings. This is Corona of Sand Wash Basin. Next to him is a Chestnut Dun pinto named Little Thunder: note the zebra stripes on the front legs, a dorsal stripe), and a chestnut behind.

Two Grullos/dark bays of different shades…

A warm dun base coat is most likely a dark chestnut base.

A pale dun, bay base (because it has black points)

A gorgeous red dun stallion on the left- probably liver chestnut base and a dark warm grullo/dark bay. Grullos tend to have very dark heads

Some call this shade a peanut butter dun

Warm grulla/dark bay mare- gravid

A pale grulla, often referred to a silver dun


Dark grullo/dark bay- may be a lobo dun

Dark grullo and a bay roan


Corona from Sand Wash Basin is a Dunalino or a Dun Palomino

One Chestnut Dun and two pale duns- possibly Dunskins (Buckskin + Dun)

Two handsome red duns; note the slightly darker red zebra stripes on both stallions


A Bay Dun Roan- with a Chestnut Dun foal. Dun roans often have paler dorsal stripes (the stallion off to the right is a Black Roan).


You can appreciate the zebra stripes and how they reflect the underlying colour in the dun bay roan. She also has faint spider webbing on her face in a diamond shape around her forehead.

Bay dun roan

Bay Dun roan

A Liver Chestnut Roan in front, with a Bay Dun Roan behind.


The Bay Dunstallion at the top of this image demonstrates the guard hairs as they travel down the mane, across the back, and into the tail. Three Bay duns and a blue Roan

A grulla in front, a bay dun, and a normal bay- you can appreciate how much red is reduced in the dun when compared to a bay


It’s an interesting Bay Dun, possibly a Dunskin from Onaqui.

Same horse from the back

Horses that look like Duns, but aren’t…


Two buckskins- they resemble duns but lack zebra striping and a dorsal stripe. The mare looks like she has a dorsal stripe, but it is fuzzy and incomplete.

Same pair from the side

The Blackroan looks like he has a dorsal stripe, but it is pale and incomplete. There are also no zebra stripes.

A beautiful buckskin mare (yes, this is a mare) with a similar yellow-tone coat

The Bay Roan in the back (top) is normal; the buckskin roan may be a dun- roans are sometimes hard to distinguish from dun roans because the roaning pattern may obscure the dorsal stripe and create a pattern similar to zebra stripes.


A buckskin greying out resembles a warm grullo- there are some faint zebra stripes and perhaps some wither and neck marks… only genetic testing will confirm

The first horse is bay, and the second has a faint dorsal stripe and guard hairs, potentially making it a pale Bay Dun; the third horse is a Bay Dun Roan, and the last horse is a Bay Dun.

Same group as above with a bay roan at the back and remember, never trust a foal coat.

Sometimes, wild horses make the identification of coat colour a challenge…

Answers to the who’s who…

Bibliography
Gower, J. (1999). Horse color explained: A breeder’s perspective. North Pomfret, VT: Trafalgar Square.    

Kathman, L. (2014). The equine tapestry: An introduction to horse colors and patterns. Charlotte, NC.: Blackberry Lane Press.  

Sponenberg, D. P. (1996). Equine color genetics. Ames: Iowa State University Press.